There won't be snow in Africa this Christmastime

Several months back, James Pinkerton wrote a cover story for one of my favorite publications, The American Conservative - a paleoconservative magazine. The piece was called "The Once and Future Christendom", and it outlined the familiar "Clash of Civilizations" between Western culture and Islam.

I found this article to be somewhat alarmist and divorced from reality. Apparently I wasn't the only one. At the John Randolph Club meeting in late September in DC, a few of the other attendees were equally puzzled by its content. When your pro-Christendom strategy is questioned by supporters of the Rockford Institute, maybe it's a bit much.

Here was the most bizarre element for me:

What of Africa? The Christian countries of Africa...need to be embraced with tough love. The immediate mission is to delineate a Christian Zone and a Muslim Zone, dividing countries if need be. All Christians, and all Muslims, have a stake in minimizing conflict; the obvious way is by separating the combatants. So a wall should go up between the warring faiths, and then a bigger wall, until the flashpoint risk of civilization clash goes away. Then, and only then, might we hope to find workable solutions within the Christian Zone.

As my readers know, I spend a good deal of my time in Senegal, in West Africa. Senegal is a Muslim country, well over 90% of its inhabitants practice Islam. Yet, its government is very secular in nature (it's a democratic republic with an elected President and Parliament), and thanks to its French colonial past, retains a strong Catholic influence. The Feast of the Assumption is a national holiday on which government offices and banks close. Ditto Good Friday, Easter Monday, etc. The pics here are of Christmas lights at Independence Square in Dakar, and sheep ready to be slaughtered for the Islamic feast of Eid al-Adha (known in Senegal as Tabaski), commemorating Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son.

This is why I found Pinkerton's article unrealistic. How do we separate a Christian Zone and Muslim Zone in such a case? And why would we want to, when people get along just fine? I continue to subscribe enthusiastically to the adage الدين لله والوطن للجميع - "Religion is for God, the nation is for all."
continue reading "There won't be snow in Africa this Christmastime..."

Taxi, Sister!

I returned to the US on Thursday night, having spent the previous 4 weeks in Dakar, Senegal filming the latest episode of "Adventures in Exporting". (That's a joke of course, although given some of the stuff I've endured over there, it might not make an uninteresting reality show!)

Actually at the moment I'm writing from Dearborn, Michigan where the Arab American Institute's National Leadership Conference is being held (I got to meet Ron Paul yesterday and I will be a speaker in a panel on blogging later today - and that's enough spoiler for now).

So, this was my first time back in Dakar since the Legislative elections held in the Summer, which, like the Presidential earlier in the year, went off without a hitch. Yes, it's business as usual in Senegal - peace prevails strongly, foreign aid dollars continue to flow in, and people remain poor but somehow optimistic.

Senegal's position presents somewhat of a paradox: endowed with practically no natural resources (unless you count peanuts and mangoes), the country is poor relative to its regional peers like Ivory Coast, Liberia, Sierra Leone, etc. Yet at the same time, there's little to fight over so the country has managed to cultivate an haven of political stability and free elections amidst a sea of civil wars and brutal conflicts. This has resulted in making Senegal a magnet for expatriate dollars (if you're an NGO or a multinational corporation, wouldn't it make sense to set up your regional HQ in a place where peace and stability reign, and your employees of foreign nationality can easily adapt given the capital's cosmopolitan nature?) On top of that, the elites of Senegal's war-torn neighbors and regional peers have often fled to Dakar, bringing lots of wealth with them. In this sense, Dakar is like a mini-London - prices are obnoxiously high for no good reason. (continued...)

Since the elections were successful, President Abdoulaye Wade (who, as I've said before, is quite the crafty diplomat - how many people can be close politically to both George W. Bush and Mahmoud Ahmadinejad?) seems to have scored a major win in gaining a grant of nearly $5 billion dollars to help reduce poverty in Senegal over the next 10 years. Now, those familiar with foreign aid (which sounds so lovely) know that the money gets sifted, funneled, channeled, and eventually pocketed by those in the elite, and very little goes to help reduce poverty, as intended. Nonetheless, a massive series of roadworks and capital projects have been undertaken - practically every major thoroughfare in Dakar is being widened and repaved, complete with overpasses and other congestion-reducing features. Now, those of us who regularly drive around the city are quite annoyed that the Corniche, for example, was started over a year ago and is STILL not complete (I've never been a fan of l'Avenue Blaise Diagne - especially after once getting stopped one Sunday afternoon by 3 different cops 3 different times in about half a mile). And the highway connecting Dakar downtown with Pikine and Yoff has been finished in a half-assed manner (how hard is it to spend one more week smoothing out the road and paving it one last time???)

Also, the Islamic summit of 2008 is going to attract a lot of attention to Dakar. Already there are major investments from Saudi, Kuwaiti, and other Arab companies. Not to mention the Chinese, who seem to be following the policy advocated by Thomas Jefferson when it comes to Africa: "Commerce with all. Alliance with none." They are cultivating deep commercial ties in just about all industries, and their low cost, low quality goods are obvious winners with the majority of the Senegalese population, which lives hand-to-mouth. Example: I have a pair of brown loafers that I bought in a department store for about $120. That was in 2001, and I still wear the shoes regularly, especially in my rigorous errands in Dakar where they would easily get scuffed up, dirty, and dull if they weren't already. At one point I decided to buy a pair of new shoes from a street vendor, they were obviously a Chinese-made copy of the latest European model. I bargained the street vendor down to about $16. After one month, I had to toss them in the bin. Completely unusable. So $16 for one month of use, or $120 for six years of use. Do the math. The average poor family in Senegal does the math, and concludes that they need something TODAY, and even if it's of no use tomorrow, they can't invest in something better because their budget simply doesn't allow it.

Chinese cars are the latest example. I'm sure in a few years they will be of reasonable quality, but for now??? You've got to see these clunkers. But like my one-month shoes, they look good when brand new! It has caused difficulty in the car market for me to price a 4 or 5-year-old used American SUV with quite a few miles on it, expecting cash payment in full, for the same price as a brand new Chinese SUV that can be financed through the dealer. But then again, there's a certain class of clients that wouldn't be caught dead driving a Chinese car (much like Japanese cars in the 70s and Korean cars in the 80s, I suppose).

On that topic, the photo shown is a brand new Chinese small car called a "Chery", and it was purchased through a government program spearheaded by Senegal's first lady, under the auspices of the Women's Ministry and the Family Ministry. It's called Taxi Sister, and it is a series of taxis with female chauffeuses, who have been fully trained in self-defense. I did not have the opportunity to ride in one of these taxis, but I will relish the opportunity to do so. It pleases me to see women employed in such a manner in a country like Senegal, because I think it's healthy for the growth of the economy and the work force (government subsidy aside).

More from Senegal in December when I return.

continue reading "Taxi, Sister!..."

BMED - the world's worst airline

For those who understand the importance of customer service and its impact on word-of-mouth marketing, consider the following:

As my readers may know, I spend a great deal of time in Senegal, travelling back and forth to tend to the 4x4 export start-up business that I launched last year. While direct flights do exist on South African Airways (which flies from both JFK and Dulles directly to Dakar en route to Johannesburg), I usually prefer to take one of the European carriers - either because they allow me to stop in London where I can re-acquaint myself with the city I called home for 2 years, earn Frequent Flyer miles on Continental's OnePass program (AirFrance, Virgin Atlantic, and Alitalia are partners), or both.

Such was the case during a trip last fall. I flew to London on Virgin Atlantic, spent 3 days with friends, and then had a flight on British Mediterranean (BMED), which operates as a franchise of British Airways, from London to Dakar.

On this trip, I had 2 suitcases, one of which had some promotional materials inside so it was rather heavy. But I had looked on the British Airways website and saw that flights to Nigeria (in the same region as Senegal) allowed for 2 bags, so I figured I'd be okay. (continued...)

Arriving at Newark, the Virgin Atlantic staff informed me that one of the bags exceeded 23 kg, so I would have to pay an excess baggage fee. How much? $35. No problem.

Fast forward to London and my departure. I arrive for check-in and the British Airways clerk tells me, "Sir, you've got 2 bags here, your ticket only allows you one." Well, I'm going to Africa for a month, I explained, and furthermore I check the regulations for Nigeria (which is all that was listed on the website) and saw that 2 were permitted. "That's an arrangement with the Nigerian government. It doesn't apply to other African flights." Well, what can I do, I can't leave behind a suitcase! "I will have to charge you for the second bag." Okay, I figured, no big deal. How much? "£23 per kg." WHAT? I protested, but was told, either pay, or miss the flight. What's the total? "£536".

For those of you not accustomed to the British Pound, the exchange these days is roughly 2:1. So £536 is well over $1,000.

$1,000 for the privilege of bringing a bag into the cargo hold for a 5-hour long-haul flight. For perspective, my ticket for the flight was only about $900. I paid more for my suitcase than for myself! I suppose I should have ordered food and drinks for my suitcase as well.

Then, imagine my shock when I got on board the flight and saw that the plane was only at about 15% capacity with only about 30 passengers on board! So it's not as if space was at a premium.

Once I returned from the trip, I explained all of this to BMED in the hopes that they would rectify the situation. I was told by a British Airways agent when I landed in London and inquired that because I was transferring from the US, the more generous trans-Atlantic provision for baggage should be applied. Not so. BMED rejected my claim flat out.

I then discovered in February that British Airways on the whole had revised its excess baggage policy (presumably because of insane situations like mine) and now there were flat rates charged for excess baggage. Under the new policy, I would have paid less than 1/4 of what I was charged. So I recontacted BMED and asked that they refund the difference between the 2 charges. Rejected again. I mentioned that I was a long-time customer, and that I would be more than happy to accept vouchers for the difference, that I could apply to future flights. Rejected again.

Why they would be such sticklers about a regulation that had later elapsed because of its unfair nature was beyond me - air travel is a very customer-service oriented business. Yet they just didn't seem to understand the potential to damage a relationship with a would-be lifelong customer.

On the advice of a friend, I took my case to the corporate level and sent a letter to British Airways CEO Willie Walsh. I reiterated the entire case once again. I received a reply, this time from British Airways customer service. Unfortunately, it was equally as stubborn and inflexible.

Thus I will never be purchasing another British Airways ticket again. For those in the US, I urge you to take one of the American carriers, or Virgin Atlantic, should you wish to fly to London. For those in the UK, and anyone else who may have the opportunity, consider very carefully whether you wish to deal with BMED - I advise you against it.
continue reading "BMED - the world's worst airline..."

Interviewed by Used Car News

A few weeks ago, in Senegal, I got a call from a Detroit-based business editor named Jim Stickford, who writes for Used Car News, an automotive trade journal that covers behind the scenes trends in the industry. He had seen the previous Herald News article and wanted to do a follow-up story. Here is the outcome.
----------------
Dealer Finds New Market in Africa
By Jim Stickford

New Jersey-born George Ajjan has found a market for American-made used cars in Africa. The 30-year-old former Republican congressional candidate originally planned on being an exporter when he first visited Senegal. He soon learned the local population was in love with American SUVs.

Ajjan, speaking from Senegal during a recent visit, said the Senegalese fascination came from seeing tricked out sport utilities on MTV. The vehicles also enjoy a good reputation for quality and durability. Ajjan changed his business plan and became an importer of used American vehicles to Africa. (continued...)

He can buy a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee in New Jersey for $10,000. Shipping and insurance add another $1,500 before the SUV reaches Dakar, Senegal's capital and main port city. Once it reaches the country, the cost can soar. Senegal assesses a 59 percent tariff on the value of an imported vehicle. The tariff is meant to prevent the country from being a dumping ground of older, more beat-up cars. It is based on a vehicle's highest value as listed by Kelley Blue Book.

That can be a problem when the government values Ajjan's $10,000 Cherokee at $13,000. That's why Ajjan recently had a trade delegation from Senegal visit Borough Jeep-Chrysler in Wayne, N.J. He wanted to explain how cars are valued and what the difference is between Kelley Blue Book's highest retail value and a vehicle's wholesale value. Joseph Franchina, a sales leader at Borough Chrysler-Jeep, hosted the Senegalese visitors. "We talked about how placing the tariff based on the retail value makes a vehicle too pricey," Franchina said. "We explained the difference between the retail price, the private party price and the wholesale price of a car."

Franchina said the event was part of an effort to create a bridge so that they could do more business in Senegal. He promoted the idea of basing a vehicle's tariff on Kelley Blue Book's listed private party value, which more closely reflects the wholesale value. Once the customs officials add the tariff, then an importer can sell in Senegal, after paying licensing fees and taxes.Since Senegalese licensing fees are based on engine size, this can add another $400 to an SUV's cost.

Ajjan finds buyers first and then finds SUVs to fit their orders. He takes an advance payment of up to 20 percent before the vehicle ships. The rest is paid on arrival. This export method benefits Ajjan because it avoids customs if the vehicle is sold to the buyer while in port. Then it is the buyer who pays to get the car out of customs. The buyer benefits because he gets some control in picking a car. A Senegal native is probably better at navigating the system anyway, Ajjan said.

There are challenges despite the SUVs' popularity. For one, diesel is the preferred fuel over there. Also, consumers are scared off by the higher costs of filling up a V-8 engine and are concerned about the availability of parts. While Ajjan eases their concerns about fuel costs, he has to admit parts for American vehicles can be hard to come by. Ajjan said he's been pretty good at providing the basics, like air and oil filters. But if the SUV's paneling is damaged, those parts are rare and expensive. "I try to mitigate these factors by emphasizing the fact that these are vehicles built less than five years ago," Ajjan said. "Senegal's big industries are fishing and mining and their road system is rough, so tough SUVs are needed." Franchina said the strong influence of the Chinese creates challenges as well.

The potential market is strong because Senegal is a stable country, Ajjan said. The recent presidential election went off without any problems.
continue reading "Interviewed by Used Car News..."

حقاً قام في افريقيا

As I have mentioned before, I have been enjoying attending the Maronite church here in Dakar, and this Passion season was the first time I experienced Holy Week in a rite other than the Melkite one. May God forgive me.

Palm Sunday, or شعنينة, demonstrated once again how "les Libano-Syriens" here have retained a strong attachment to their origins. As is customary, everyone showed up, especially the children, in their finest clothes. Shanineh has always been a bit of a day to show off, if I dare say.

On "Sad Friday" I also had the opportunity to attend. The place was packed - I got the feeling that this service has a particularly high profile each year. A Senegalese Minister was in attendance (cannot remember which Ministry), plus the Ambassador of Lebanon (and several other diplomats from that country), the Russian Ambassador, and the Romanian Ambassador. A high ranking Catholic clergyman from the Diocese of Dakar also played a prominent role in the service.

The highlight though, I must say, was a wonderful rendition of the Melkite hymn "al-yom uliqa" by a, male cantor (a difference from the version by Sister Marie Keyrouz) with the lights turned off.

Unfortunately for me, I misread the schedule and thus missed the midnight mass for Easter Sunday. No hajmeh this year!
continue reading "حقاً قام في افريقيا..."

Le Père du libéralisme panafricain

For the 2nd straight year, I have been in Dakar for the celebration of Senegal's Independence Day - today, the 4th of April. This year was out of the ordinary, though, because the holiday was extended to 3 days, to double as the inaugural for octogenarian President Abdoulaye Wade's 2nd term - this time for 5 years instead of 7. He emerged victorious on the February 25 elections by a huge margin decried by his opponents, who nonetheless could do little to combat the power of incumbency.

20 African heads of state turned up, not the least of which was the "Brother Guide of the Revolution", none other than Moamar Qadhafi, who once again graced the city with his presence and his controversial calls for African unity and even a pan-African army - not to mention reparations from France for Senegal's colonial past. Par for the course as far the Colonel goes, but this year had an interesting twist, as the French Ambassador reportedly walked out on the ceremony before Qadhafi's speech (I will add a link as soon as I can find a reference).

There is lingering worry in Senegal about the change in France's relation with its former colonies with the upcoming election - generally speaking, there is fear that a victory by Nicholas Sarkozy could prompt economic instability. The CFA (African) Franc, a regional currency pegged to the Euro, is backed up by the French Treasury, and - so the worry goes - Sarkozy's lack of appreciation for the historic ties of France and West Africa could lead to further devaluation. A French businesswoman I met this morning, however, rejected that analysis, since the CFA Franc was previously devalued under the old-school leadership of François Mitterand. And interesting side-note: Sarkozy's main competitor in the April/May presidential elections in France, Socialist Party nominee Ségolène Royal, was born in Dakar.

Also, in recent days, Wade greeted an international conference assembled in Dakar devoted to "International Liberalism". The banner shown in this photo (apologies for the poor quality), touts the Senegalese President as "The Father of pan-African Liberalism". Wade, who was educated in France and is married to a French woman, certainly represents the elite of African society - and his preference for "western" values showed through in his speech broadcast on the eve of Independence Day, during which he spoke at length about the equality of women in the workplace and government.



Under Wade's leadership, Senegal has enjoyed excellent relations with the United States and he has personally played host to both George W. Bush and Condolleeza Rice. I guess it figures that a "compassionate conservative" holds such a self-professed liberal in such high esteem. Then again, this is the same President who hailed the Iraqis for approving "the most progressive...constitution in the Arab World." Right up the neo-con's alley. I guess he's a "progressive conservative" these days. Do as I say, not as I do.
continue reading "Le Père du libéralisme panafricain..."

Senegalese visit to Borough Jeep in Wayne

Several weeks ago, I got a call from the Embassy of Senegal in Washington, DC - specifically from my friend and advisor Alhousseynou Diallo, the Economic Counsellor. He informed me that a delegation of high-ranking customs officials would be travelling to New York to meet with their American counterparts and discuss bilateral trade.

As an auxiliary component of their trip, he wanted me to organize a presentation on used automobile valuations, and I was happy to oblige. I immediately contacted Joe Franchina at Borough Jeep Chrysler in Wayne, which has been owned by the Hagedoorn family (Prospect Park Hollanders) for over 80 years, and they agreed to host the delegation.

It was a fantastic event, especially given the weather conditions and the excitement with which these dignitaries played in the snow! Samantha Henry at the Herald News covered the event, as seen below.
---------------
Senegal eyes ties with Jersey car dealers

Wednesday, March 21, 2007 By SAMANTHA HENRY - HERALD NEWS

partial scan with photos

WAYNE -- A light snow was dusting the lot at Borough Jeep Chrysler, when a beat-up minivan with diplomatic plates rolled up. It discharged a delegation of port officials from the West African nation of Senegal.

"Welcome, Senegalese friends!" said George Ajjan, a former Republican congressional candidate-turned-entrepreneur, greeting them in French.

Ajjan, 30, of Clifton, had arranged the delegation's March visit to forge better trade ties between New Jersey and West Africa and to capitalize on what Ajjan said was the growing popularity of American SUVs there. "You mention Cadillac Escalade or Hummer to them, and they're beside themselves," Ajjan said. "Rap videos are popular, and Senegal is behind the U.S. and France as the third rap capital of the world."

A Senegalese member of the delegation agreed. "They see everything on TV -- rap music, black culture," said Al Housseynou Diallo, first economic counselor at the Senegalese Embassy in Washington, D.C. "It's popular, especially with young people."

In trying to find ways to export American cars, Ajjan said he came up against the dominance of French car makers in Senegal, the preference for diesel-fueled vehicles, and the high tariffs on American imports. The per capita income of Senegal's 12 million people was $709 in 2005, according to the U.S. State Department.

Ajjan decided that the first thing to do was persuade Senegalese trade officials to lower import taxes. "We're pricing American cars uncompetitively, by basing the tariff on the highest price," he told the group, explaining to them in French about ''le Kelley bleu book,'' -- or the Kelley Blue Book -- and American methods for pricing used cars. "It's an opportunity to build a bridge to Africa," said Joseph Franchina, sales leader at Borough Jeep Chrysler.

Africa isn't the only place where American popular culture -- arguably one of the nation's biggest exports -- may be contributing to a demand for cars that might not otherwise be practical in countries where unleaded gas is exorbitantly expensive. Vecdi Ugurlu, who owns King Motors Inc. on Route 46 in Little Ferry, said American cars -- especially SUVs -- are also catching on in his native Turkey. "Cadillac Escalade, Hummers, all these cars are popular over there, because people have such love for America," he said.

Ugurlu said a Lincoln Navigator, which sells for about $65,000 in the U.S., retails for $175,000 in Turkey, after taxes and shipping costs are factored in. Only a select clientele can afford them, according to Ugurlu, but selling just a few can be lucrative. "It's all image, it shows they are rich," he said. "Here in America, you don't see the difference, because money doesn't distinguish -- if you have credit here, and a steady income, you can drive the same truck as a rich man. But in Turkey, it's impossible to drive the same car, or eat at a fancy restaurant, as a rich man."

Ugurlu said selling cars overseas is a complicated business -- different countries have varying import restrictions and tariff structures. But despite the obstacles, he's seen a number of North Jersey car dealers testing the waters of the international car market via the Internet. "We have buyers all over the world from our Web site," Ugurlu said. "Today, you can get on the Internet and see cars anywhere, transfer funds, and do legal matters. After they wire the money in, we take the car to the port and ship it to them."

Understanding the cultural nuances of international buyers is also important, both Ugurlu and Ajjan said. Ugurlu said in many countries, high mileage on a used car rarely factors into the price, the way it does in America. In Senegal, Ajjan discovered that few prospective buyers are interested in test driving a car, but will insist on a pristine spare tire as a condition of sale. After his presentation to the Senegalese at the Wayne dealership, several of the customs officials seemed persuaded that lowering tariffs and allowing more American cars into Senegal would make a market of willing buyers.

"We live the American life," said Papa Moussa Sy, an airport customs official in Senegal, through a French translator. "If it happens here in the morning, we have it in Senegal by the evening."

Reach Samantha Henry at 973-569-7172 or henrys@northjersey.com.
continue reading "Senegalese visit to Borough Jeep in Wayne..."

Snowy still water surprise

What a delight, descending upon Heathrow from Dakar 2 days ago (on a BMED flight), to hear the captain announce that London had been covered in a blanket of snow the previous day! In my experience, snow (or at least snow that sticks) is quite rare there.

But I had a bigger shock when a friend and I sat down to eat at Sofra (a Turkish chain) in my old stomping grounds of St. John's Wood, and the waiter brought us the still water that had been ordered. Having been in Africa for the past month, such highly-advanced packaged and marketed products seem other-worldly. I mean I really did a double-take when served such "high-class" hydroxylic acid.
continue reading "Snowy still water surprise..."

La dakaroise de l'Ashoura et des Maronites

Today is the Islamic holiday of Ashoura, which commemorates the death of the Imam Hussein at Karbala in Iraq (which I visited in 2003, although because of security concerns was not able to approach the mosque in which he is enshrined) in the year 680. Hussein, like his brother Hassan, was the son of Mohammed's daughter Fatima, and their father was Mohammed's cousin Ali (entombed at Najaf).

Without getting into a long dissertation about Shiite devotion to Ali and the rest of his descendants, suffice it to say that Ashoura holds great and somber significance to Shiite Muslims. In the Islamic world on the whole, however, its commemoration spans a continuum. On the far right, you have penitential types who express their distress over Hussein's martyrdom by flagellating themselves. Ouch. Somewhere in the middle, you have less dramatic individuals who consider the day one of reflection and sadness, analogous I suppose to Good Friday for Christians (or Sad Friday as it is called in Arabic, I dare say more fittingly) or Yom Kippur for Jews.

Then, on the left wing, you have what I witnessed last night here in Dakar. In Senegal, whose natives do not practice Shia Islam, the holiday is called Tamkharit (much like Eid al-Adha, celebrated at the end of the annual Hajj, or pilgrimage to Mecca, is called Tabaski – as depicted in this advertisement for end-of-the-year bank loans from French financial giant Société Générale, oh-so-piously posted on the back of a bus). On the eve of Ashoura, Senegalese children dress up (girls like boys and boys like girls), and a customary dish of couscous is prepared. It's a grand ol' time.

No wonder that some of my Lebanese friends here, Shiites who trace their origins to the village of Qana (known first and foremost as the site of Christ's first miracle and secondly as the target of deadly Israeli bombardments both in 1996 and 2006) have been mumbling and grumbling for the past several days (par exemple: il faut respecter le prophète, et il faut respecter sa famille!!!). For them, it is inappropriate to be joyfully celebrating the death of a saintly figure, depicted in this tapestry which marks Hussein's travels in Syria, Mesopotamia, and Arabia – my friend was keen to show this to me because Aleppo is marked on the map.

This is my first time witnessing Ashoura in a country with a Muslim majority, so it is unclear to me how it is "celebrated" elsewhere. Any instructive comments on that would be welcome.

Now, switching gears for a moment, but still discussing the Lebanese community here in Dakar, I attended once again a Maronite mass this past Sunday. I was amazed. Considering just how franc